Today I did one of the best hikes of my life, from my “home town” of Camogli to the Abbey of San Fruttuoso. I went there a couple of days ago on the ferry, but wanted to make the trip on foot.

The hike begins along the sea promenade in Camogli before going up, up along a long series of winding stairs to San Rocco at the top of the nearest mountain peak hill. A quick view down to all of the boats dotted like ants in the azure sea and then more up. Before long I’m in terraced olive groves and then woodland.  The stones of the trail are so worn I can almost imagine the berobed and sandaled monks trodding upon it themselves of yore.  Once in the woods, I no longer hear cicadas but birdsong and the gurgling of a mountain stream. The stream keeps me company (and makes me thirsty). The smell of the woods is more reminiscent of Michigan in the summer than Colorado. Next thing I’m making a steep descent back down to the sea and the abbey, once again in the sun, and once again serenaded by cicadas.

I take a glorious swim in the sea before returning to Camogli by ferry just in time to grab some focaccia al formaggio from my favorite bakery as a pre-dinner appetizer. Next I head to my favorite wine shop to select a couple of bottles. The owner now recognizes me (natch) and helps me select a delectable vino rosso which I am enjoying as I write this.

In other news, I am fully expecting to be able to bounce a quarter off my a$$ by the time I get home. There are not just hills but mountain slopes that you have to walk up here just to get to the grocery store. And that’s not including the 84 extremely vertiginous steps up to our apartment. Those I walk at least twice a day – once to go wherever my planned excursion is for the day and at least one other in order to grab my post-dinner gelato.

I had originally thought I would hike the Cinque Terre trail tomorrow, but after today I think the better plan is to park my weary bottom in a beach chair with a book and practice what the Italians call il dolce far niente – the sweetness of doing nothing.

Some photos for your viewing pleasure…

Boats dotting the cove below San Rocco

Part of the woodland portion of the trail

Christ of the Mariners - protecting those at sea. Was enthralled with this sculpture...

San Fruttuoso Beach

Cliffside Restaurant

San Fruttuoso Abbey from the ferry

Camogli from the "sea entrance"

Categories: Italy, Travel · Tags: , , , , ,



  1. Wow! Wow! Wow!

    This looks so fabulous, Julie. I am so happy for you. What a spectacular environment to enjoy this summer.


  2. Thanks for the tip. We have been to Camogli (and loved it) so we need to do this bit as well.

  3. Your life sounds divine! I’m glad you shared this so I can live vicariously through you! Thanks for your help on my first page for shelley w’s contest. I appreciate your input! Christy

  4. Uh…can I have your life? I want to go to Italy! This looks like it was an amazing trip!

  5. Oh, it’s gorgeous! Did i mention. i am so jealous!!!

  6. Hey guys – thank you for your comments. I’m glad there are folks enjoying coming along vicariously.

    bagnidilucca – good to find your blog too! You really must try the San Fruttuoso hike next time you’re in Camogli. It is definitely special, and not nearly as crowded as the popular Cinque Terre trails.

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